← byPeach·Hotels · Mountain lodge·Pinecrest Lodge
Est. MCMXXVIII · 14 Cabins · Bitterroot, Montana

A lodge,
a lake,
a long quiet.

Fourteen hand-built cabins on a quarter-mile bend of the Bitterroot, ninety minutes from anywhere. Wood stoves, lake-fed taps, a cast-iron breakfast at the main house. Three generations of the same family, since the spring of nineteen twenty-eight.

  • No Wi-Fi, by design
  • No room phones
  • No televisions
  • Yes - a single payphone, in the boot room
§ I  ·  A word from the porch

Pinecrest was built by my grandfather in the spring of nineteen twenty-eight, with a single milled-cedar cabin, a tin-roof kitchen and a hand-pump on the lake side. Ninety-eight years later there are fourteen cabins, the same kitchen, and the same hand-pump - though the pump now mostly serves the dogs.

We have never installed Wi-Fi. We never will. The signal is patchy up the canyon and you will find it patchy here too, which is largely the point. There is a payphone in the boot room. There is a small stack of typewriters in the library, in case the urge takes you.

Annika Halder
Third generation · innkeeper since 2011
Annika Halder, on the porch of the main lodgePlate i.  A.H., the porch, May.
§ II  ·  The cabins

Fourteen cabins, no two alike.

Each one named for the animal that turned up most often when it was built. Loon and Heron sit lake-side. Fox Den, Marten and Owl climb the ridge. Cedar, Hemlock and Larch are tucked in the old-growth. Trout, Otter, Mink and Beaver thread the river. Bear and Stag sit alone at the eastern boundary. None of them lock from the inside.

the BitterrootHalder L.THE LODGEILoonIIOtterIIIMinkIVHeronVIIFox DenVIIIMartenIXOwlXHemlockXICedarXIILarchVTroutVIBeaverXIIIBearXIVStagNSWE0¼ mi½ miPINECRESTa sketch of the property · drawn from memoryby Annika H., MMXXII
CABIN VII

Fox Den

Ridge · sleeps 6
Fox Den cabin interior, eveningPlate ii.  Fox Den, dusk.
Sleeps
6 · two queens, loft bunks
Year built
1939 · rebuilt 2017
Heat
Soapstone wood stove · in-floor
View
The ridge · the Bitterroot at distance
Bath
Clawfoot tub · copper rainshower
From
$620 per night · off-season $440

The eastern-most of the three ridge cabins. A long covered porch that has held weddings, wakes, and a hundred quiet breakfasts. The biggest stove on the property; you'll be warm by 09:00 even in February.

Hold this cabin  →
The fourteen, at a glanceFrom / per night
  • / I
    Loon
    lake-side · Cast-iron wood stove
    sleeps 4$480/nt
  • / II
    Otter
    lake-side · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 2$360/nt
  • / III
    Mink
    lake-side · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 2$340/nt
  • / IV
    Heron
    meadow · Cast-iron wood stove
    sleeps 2$320/nt
  • / V
    Trout
    river · Cast-iron wood stove
    sleeps 4$460/nt
  • / VI
    Beaver
    river · Cast-iron wood stove
    sleeps 4$440/nt
  • / VII
    Fox Den
    ridge · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 6$620/nt
  • / VIII
    Marten
    ridge · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 4$480/nt
  • / IX
    Owl
    ridge · Cast-iron wood stove
    sleeps 2$420/nt
  • / X
    Hemlock
    old growth · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 4$460/nt
  • / XI
    Cedar
    old growth · Cast-iron wood stove
    sleeps 2$340/nt
  • / XII
    Larch
    old growth · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 4$440/nt
  • / XIII
    Bear
    east bdry. · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 6$580/nt
  • / XIV
    Stag
    east bdry. · Soapstone wood stove
    sleeps 4$500/nt
§ III  ·  The lodge

A common room, and a long table.

The main building has stood since the first summer. A dining hall with a single long table that seats forty. A library of nine hundred books, mostly the wrong kind. A wood-stove living room where guests play cribbage badly. A porch that faces west.

Dining hall at breakfast, long pine tablePlate iii. Dining hall, breakfast.
/ III. i

The dining hall

A forty-foot table, milled from a single white pine that came down in the storm of '53. Breakfast at 08:00, supper at 19:30, every day. No menu; one good thing, served family-style. Eat with the people who happen to be here.

  • Breakfast08:00 - 10:00 · included
  • Supper19:30 · $48 · reserve at check-in
  • Sundaysroast · 14:00 · the long lunch
The library, two leather armchairs by a windowPlate iv. The library, two armchairs.
/ III. ii

The library

Nine hundred books, almost none of them practical. Mostly nineteenth-century novels, field guides, river-poetry, and the complete annotated Compleat Angler. Take any one to your cabin; return it before you leave, or don't.

  • Opencontinuously · key under the lamp
  • Holdings~ 900 volumes · 04 typewriters
  • Loanshonour system · since 1928
The great room with soapstone wood stovePlate v. The great room, after supper.
/ III. iii

The great room

A soapstone wood stove that has not gone fully out, on record, since November 1971. Six deep leather chairs. A cribbage board with three pegs missing. A piano, in the corner, only mostly in tune.

  • The stoveburning, since '71
  • Drinksafter supper · honesty bar
  • Quiet hoursafter 22:00 · please
The west porch at golden hour, wicker chairsPlate vi. The west porch, golden hour.
/ III. iv

The west porch

Sixty feet of covered porch, fourteen wicker chairs, two large dogs. The west-facing view, between the Bitterroot and the ridge, is the reason most people first come. It is also the reason most people come back.

  • Sunset20:46 · in late August
  • DogsMargot & Pip · both, mostly friendly
  • Coffee05:30 · on the stove · help yourself
§ IV  ·  The land

Six trails, two-twenty acres.

The property line takes in two-hundred and twenty acres of ponderosa, larch and white pine, a half-mile of river, and the small glacial lake the cabins are named for. There are six marked trails; all begin from the boot room of the main lodge.

TrailDistanceElevationLevelTime
  • I
    Lake loop - around Halder L.
    Around the lake on the cleared cedar path. Mostly flat; a wooden bridge at the inlet. Children, dogs, all weather.
    0.9 mi+18 ftEasy25 min
  • II
    River walk - the south bank.
    Down to the Bitterroot and out along the south bank to the cottonwood grove. Best at first light, when the otters work the eddy.
    1.8 mi+80 ftEasy45 min
  • III
    Old growth - to the Hemlock stand.
    A gentle climb to the four hundred-year stand. The three biggest hemlocks are signed; the fourth, we keep to ourselves.
    2.4 mi+360 ftModerate1 hr 20
  • IV
    Ridge ascent - to Halder's Bench.
    Switchbacks up the south ridge to a granite bench with the best view on the property. A flask is recommended. Bring water either way.
    3.6 mi+1,180 ftSteep2 hr 15
  • V
    East boundary - Bear & Stag.
    A quiet rolling trail past Bear and Stag, the two eastern cabins, and out to the property fence. Almost no foot traffic, even in August.
    2.1 mi+220 ftModerate1 hr 05
  • VI
    The long one - Cathedral Pass.
    Out the back gate onto Bitterroot Forest land, up Cathedral Pass and back the river way. A full day. We will pack you a lunch.
    9.4 mi+2,840 ftStrenuous5 - 7 hr
The sauna interior, embers in the wood-fired stovePlate vii.  The sauna, embers · 21:14.
§ V  ·  The sauna

A small cedar room, warmed by fire.

A single wood-fired sauna at the lake's edge, built by our grandfather's nephew in 1962, after a long winter in Finland. It holds six. We light the stove at 18:30 every evening. Walk down after supper, in a robe and slippers, and into the lake after.

Fire-up
18:30 · every evening
Open
20:00 - 23:00 · book a half-hour at the desk
Capacity
Six on the upper bench, four on the lower
After
The lake, year-round · or the cold shower · or neither
Included
For staying guests · $28 / half-hour otherwise
Quiet
By default · the sauna is not the place for catching up
§ VI  ·  Notes from the porch

A few things, worth setting down.

All entries · 96  →
A typewriter on a porch tableLetter no. lxxxiv.

Why the lodge will never have Wi-Fi.

We get the question maybe twice a month, almost always in writing, almost always polite. Annika sat down on a Sunday after a long week and wrote out, properly, the eight reasons.

A morel mushroom on mossLetter no. lxxxi.

The first morel of the year.

Tuesday, half a mile up the river walk, in the moss on a fallen cottonwood. A small one. A good year, when the first comes early.

A soapstone wood stove glowingLetter no. lxxvii.

On the wood stove, burning since '71.

The story of a stove, a snowstorm in November of nineteen seventy-one, and the family rule (mostly a joke, mostly not) that has kept it lit ever since.

§ VII  ·  Reserve

Hold a cabin.

Four steps. Two-night minimum, seven in August. Holds are confirmed by hand; you'll get a short note from Annika by morning. Deposit is one night; the rest is settled at check-out.

Step I of IV

Choose your dates

IDatesIICabinIIIYouIVConfirm
June 2026
MonTueWedThuFriSatSun
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
Open Limited Closed / full- select arrival & departure -
---
§ VIII  ·  Find us

Six miles of gravel, off Highway 93.

Ninety minutes south of Missoula. Turn off Highway 93 at the painted barn - easy to miss in the rain - and follow Bitterroot Lane to the cattle guard. The last six miles are gravel; drive slowly, the deer are not in a hurry either. There is no signage at the gate; that is intentional.

Address
1928 Bitterroot Lane
Sula, Montana  ·  59871
Telephone
+1 406 555 0128
Office hours · Tue-Sun · 09 - 18
Email
annika@pinecrestlodge.us
Replied to, by hand, by morning
By post
Pinecrest Lodge
P.O. Box 14, Sula MT 59871
By air
Missoula (MSO)  ·  1 hr 35
Hamilton (6S5)  ·  22 min
Season
Open year-round  ·  eight cabins in winter
All fourteen, mid-May through October
The gravel driveway, last bend before the lodgePlate viii.  Driveway, last bend.

A small request: there is no cell signal for the last seven miles, and most carriers have nothing inside the property. Please tell anyone expecting to reach you that they will not, until you ring them from the boot-room payphone. We have found, almost without exception, that this is what they remember about the week.